Superyacht – A privately owned yacht 24 metres length and above, and carries a professional crew.– boatinternational.com
“I only have three questions for you:”
The phone call came unexpectedly one evening as I was relaxing on a stone bench near the Basilica de Santa Maria in Mallorca, Spain. I was a professional deckhand in the yachting industry, in town to find a boat for the upcoming Mediterranean season. Unfortunately, most yachts were already fully crewed and I was starting to worry that I’d missed my chance to secure a job. The voice on the other end of the call was rumbled with whiskey and impatience:
“Can you handle going off the beaten path?
Do you have thick skin?
Are you comfortable in cold weather?”
I was puzzled by the third question- the Mediterranean isn’t known for it’s chilly summers. But once I’d answered affirmatively to all three queries, the captain explained he needed a deckhand to help crew a private superyacht in the Pacific Ocean. The itinerary would begin in Vancouver, head north to Alaska and possibly traverse the Northwest Passage. It would be brutal, challenging, and unlike anything I’d ever done before.
“When do I start?”
The Yacht
My new floating home was docked on Stuart Island, a heavily wooded stretch of land only 50 minutes North of Vancouver by seaplane. Pine-covered mountains and glacier-carved fjords surrounded a mostly undeveloped landscape. I glimpsed a maze of hiking trails while pressed against the smudged windows of the biplane, which connected the owner’s main property down to his private dock where the 164 foot superyacht was moored. A vacant helicopter pad sat ashore, and four Boston Whaler fishing boats was docked nearby.
This particular superyacht was custom built yacht in 2004 for her first owner’s deep sea fishing and exotic reef diving exploits. At the time, she was the largest fiberglass yacht built in the US. The original specs included an onboard decompression chamber and a dive cage rated for great white sharks. There was a helicopter and also a compressor capable of filling tanks with both nitrox and normal air, allowing different methods of scuba diving.
This superyacht was designed as an expedition yacht, with advanced seaworthy capabilities. She has a composite hull for increased strength, resistance to corrosion and insulating properties. Her two Caterpillar Diesel engines operate at slower intervals than typical yacht engines, reducing the maintenance and service intervals.
In 2010, during the height of the financial crisis, her owner filed for bankruptcy and the US Marshalls seized the superyacht. She sat vacant for one year before the current owner purchased her at auction for fraction of her original cost.
Today, the superyacht is the picture of luxury. The new owner converted the shark cage and decompression chamber into an additional crew cabin, and added top-of-the-line finishes and amenities, including a jacuzzi, two full-service bars, an elevator, a self-playing piano and miles of Art Deco mahogany.
An inflatable pontoon boat now occupies the helicopter pad, and overhead gantry cranes can lower two 24’ powerboats into the water. Theres six kayaks, three paddleboards, deep sea fishing equipment, snorkeling and dive gear onboard.
Itinerary
While most yachts were cruising the Caribbean or docked in Monaco, she was busy exploring Patagonian glaciers or the Japanese coast. The superyacht did remote dive trips in the South Pacific, and became one of the first private yachts to cruise the abandoned atomic test site near Bikini, Marshall Islands. She was rarely docked in the same marina longer than a month.
She has circumnavigated the globe, endured stormy Antarctic sea conditions and passed multiple times through the Panama Canal. As long as the water was deep enough to accommodate the ship’s 10.5 ft draft, mostly anything was possible.
- Triton’s previous passages over the years, outlined in the red and black lines
The Crew
Joining a new crew is always nerve-racking, but this time was even worse. Typically I’d conduct a set of reference checks about the yacht’s reputation. But due to the last minute offer and atypical itinerary, I was going in blind. These 9 random people would be my family, friends, and coworkers for the next 12 months. We would have to work and function together 24/7 in cramped and often stressful conditions.
The other nine crew members had been working together onboard for almost 12 months. It was a multinational group consisting of three South Africans, two Australians, two Brits, and one each from Canada and Croatia. My arrival added one American to the mix. Our average age was over 30, and we all had multiple years of experience making for a relatively mature crew.
One of the surprises onboard was the number of relationships. Out of the five men and four women onboard, four were couples and two other crew members were in shore-based relationships. Many yachts have strict policies against hiring couples, because any drama can quickly have a negative impact on crew morale. Additionally, if one crew member quits, their partner will also leave, creating additional staffing headaches for the captain.
Over the course of the next year, we gradually formed a close camaraderie and introduced each other to our different cultures. I sampled a half dozen different types of English tea, and added Croatian olive oil to literally every single meal. I learned about South African cricket, and became accustomed to their culture of clarifying present time in five different ways (there’s: right now, just now, eventually maybe, now now, and present time, all with different meanings). I tasted Vegemite on bread from the Australians, and celebrated Canada Day with plenty of red and white male leaf emblems.
The Owner
The yacht’s second owner was an 80 year old billionaire who simply loved to explore. He always ensured as many crew were included on excursions as possible. We assisted leading the way while hiking through Canadian forests, or filled up any extra kayaking seats to help paddle down rivers. When the owner finished exploring glaciers by powerboat in Alaska, he instructed the crew to pile in afterwards and cruise along together. As long as we were seeing the same destinations he was, he was satisfied. It was his small selfless token of appreciation for our hard work.
- After the guests finished cruising around the glaciers, the crew took the powerboat for a personal tour.
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- Navigating through glaciers in Alaska
He also had a quirky penchant for collecting travel books at every destination he visited. Over time, the yacht’s library became filled with photo journals, memoirs, and guides to all the past locations. Whenever we were in port, he’d always end up finding the local bookstore to support. During my time off, I had an endless library onboard to browse from where his personal assistant eventually warned him about the need for more bookcases if he continued his purchases.
To him, the yacht wasn’t just a show of wealth. He used her exactly as intended. I don’t have words for how lucky we were to work for him. Like all yacht owners, he was wealthy. But his wealth hadn’t corrupted him, it made him grateful and humble. He was kind, genuine, and always thanked us for our work. This meant a great deal working in an often thankless service industry.
The Pacific
After two months of preparation on Stuart Island, we left for 10 months at sea. And I was ready. We had rehearsed our medical and fire drills, and completed numerous weekly cruises through the mountainous fjords with guests. Route deck maintenance such as waxing paint, polishing stainless and organizing supply lockers had even begun to sap my enthusiasm. A boat isn’t meant to sit in one place for too long, and the entire crew had begun to feel anxious being in Stuart Island for all summer.
I was ready to cruise.
- Exploring waterfalls on a weekly cruise in British Columbia, Canada
Most people imagine life onboard a yacht as all sailing, sunshine, and relaxation. Yet for the crew, it’s one of the most brutal work schedules in the service industry. Yachting is a lifestyle, where we frequently work 16 hour days and can often go months without getting a day off.
Downtime is typically non existent. Vacations must be scheduled during the itineraries’ slower periods and even when you have time scheduled, it is subject to change at the last minute.
Every morning the crew reviews the guest itinerary. Then we use radios throughout the day to provide constant updates about guest locations. Our meals and breaks are often interrupted to facilitate watersport activities or to take guests ashore. From swimming to suntanning, we worrk to accommodate their preferences as best as possible.
Yet this hectic schedule also included a unique benefit. Onboard the superyacht, we were invited to accompany guests on their many excursions – activities I could never afford on my own. We visited remote Inuit villages in Alaska, fished alongside Brown Bears during the salmon spawning season and watched migrating whales breach in Hawaii.
- I got up close to Brown Bears in Katmai National Park, Alaska
Another perk was the time we were able to spend in local towns and villages when the boat was docked without guests aboard. On those rare occasions, every crew member worked 8-4 Monday through Friday. Two crew rotated onboard every evening in order to respond to any alarms leaving the rest to explore. I relished these short breaks, taking every advantage to immerse myself in new cultures. I got lost in Ishigaki’s narrow alleyways, walked along Portland’s riverfront promenade, and stumbled upon rusting mining equipment in the Alaskan tundra.
- Docked in the Waikiki Yacht Club, Oahu
Yet this yacht was never stationed in one spot for too long.
A large percentage of my time onboard was spent moving the yacht around the globe. 1-2 week passages without guests onboard were not uncommon. Two Caterpillar diesel engines run around the clock while everyone works in four-hour shifts, followed by 8 hours of rest. To pass the time, crew members watch movies, play board games and use the fitness equipment on deck.
This routine was only interrupted to practice safety drills or if we spotted marine life underway. Dolphins occasionally approached the boat to ride our wake, while flying fish would jump into the air to glide over the waves. Sometimes we’d spot flocks of birds circling overhead, indicating fish. Then we’d scramble out onto the stern to set up 4-6 fishing rods and slowly troll for Halibut, Tuna, Dorado, and Wahoo.
Inevitably during passage, the yacht would cruise through periods of stormy conditions. Any unsecured items during rough seas could quickly become dislodged and become a hazardous projectile to crew, so preparation was key.. The deck team would secure the deck by tightening all of the straps and lockers before assisting stewardesses inside with the interior furniture and storing any loose objects.
The stormiest conditions I encountered that year was during a passage through the Bering sea. 20 foot waves crashed over the top deck and 40 knot winds rocked our ship uncontrollably. No crew was allowed to go outside, so spent time performing checks inside and securing objects and dishes that became strewn about. The constant pounding and churning caused many crew to become seasick, and most meals went uneaten in the crew mess. Those who weren’t sick, bounced around helplessly in their bunks like rag dolls, futilely attempting to brace themselves to catch a few hours of mediocre sleep. For 48 hours, crew became weary and miserable, until gradually the low pressure system gave way to sunny and calmer conditions.
Dangers At Sea
Hazards are constantly prevalent while working on deck. Being smashed by heavy equipment, falling while working aloft, and tumbling overboard are all very real threats. Additionally, superyachts are often positioned in remote locations making it particularly difficult for a quick transfer to onshore medical facilities. In 2016, crew were lowering an anchor onboard a 460 foot superyacht when it broke free, partially severing a crew member’s legs and killing him.
The hazardous nature of the work means that crews are adamant about proper safety and working procedures. Crew typically complete detailed permits to work aloft or overboard, and life jackets are worn during choppy sea conditions. However no amount of preparations can completely obviate the risk of accidents. In 2015, a British engineer fell into the water where he was hit on the head by a fender hook and spent several minutes underwater before later passing away due to complications. A investigative report identified the accident due to a breakdown in proper supervision and not wearing the necessary safety equipment.
Yachting requires a constant situational awareness in order to minimize injuries and accidents.
In Conclusion
Measured against conventional standards, my year onboard the superyacht was about hitting the pause button on life. My family, friends, and love life all took a backseat – suspended in dis animation for 12 months. But it’s the intangible and unconventional measures that truly matter. I learned about the importance of enjoying small moments in a busy life; taking a minute to look outside and appreciate the beautiful colors during a sunset, or the stars in the crystal clear sky. I discovered beauty in digging my feet in the wet sand while waiting for guests on a remote Pacific island. It’s so easy to get so caught up in the day-to-day whirlwind of life and we need to enjoy those short moments.
This fast paced service industry also emphasized the values of conflict resolution. Guest demands were high, and it was easy to become caught up in the day to day bustle to provide five star service. Living and working together with crew amplified the stresses, and we easily butted heads at times during the seemingly most minor of issues, whether it was misplaced sun lotion or an incorrectly folded towell. I learned during the heat of the moment to take step back and give everyone the benefit of the doubt. I wasn’t the only fatigued crew member onboard, and problems typically required a night of rest for everyone before reapproaching it the following morning. Work is only a job. And I tried to enjoy it as much as possible.
