The Camino Frances in Spain
This article describes my experiences while hiking the Camino de Santiago for 3 weeks in Spain.
The Camino de Santiago is a series of 13 different ancient pilgrimage routes traversing across Spain, all eventually ending in the Northwestern city of Santiago de Compostela. Historically, pilgrims walked the entire route to reach the Cathedral de Santiago, which reputedly holds the remnants of the apostle Saint James.
Nowadays, the Camino still provides a truly life changing experience. It opens up modern day pilgrims to the positivity of human nature and humbling generosity when walking on the trail.
Over the course of this 3 week journey, I experienced a lifestyle completely insulated from modern day commercialization and revolving around the theme of helping thy neighbor. Besides making countless new friends, I realized the human body’s incredible endurance and capability to consistently walk 20+ miles a day/ 7 days a week, including the flexibility to sleep in dormitories where over 10 people could snore in unison similarly to an concert orchestra.
Starting Point
Due to my time constraint, I was limited to walking three weeks on the Camino. Therefore I chose a 300 km section on the most popular “Camino Francés” route, and began in León.
Armed with a 36 liter backpack to carry all my gear and weighing around 20 pounds, I was ready begin.
Arriving in Spain
I took a direct flight from California to Barcelona. I was limited one day to organize self storage for my excess baggage and purchase a Spanish SIM card, before embarking on a 13 hour train ride to my starting point in León.
First observation
News flash – Spaniards cherish their work life balance. Many business in Spain are closed on weekends (except for a few supermarkets). It was difficult finding a storage place open on Sunday to leave my bags.
The Starting Point
Verification
Upon arriving in Leon, I purchased my official pilgrim card at the Basilica de San Isidoro. This document would certify I was an official pilgrim and was eligible for benefits including reduced meal prices and priority when sleeping at hostels on the trail.
I collected stamps from various cafes, Albergues (hostels) and restaurants to certify my journey along the Camino. As long as I walked the final 100km to Santiago de Compostela unassisted by a bus or taxi, I would receive my certificate of completion at the end. The Cathedral office personnel in Santiago verified the final collection of stamps.
Who hikes the Camino and why?
There’s a saying that everyone walks their own Camino. There isn’t a uniform reason everyone undertakes it. Some choose it for spiritual, cultural or simply because the person desires a physical challenge.
As someone in my late 20’s, I was in the younger age group amongst hikers predominantly in their 40-60s.
I met a 69 year old New Zealander who had been walking around the world for years, and middle aged adults going through a midlife crisis at home. There were even Flemish and Dutch travelers who both began walking from their hometown, over 2000 miles away.
There were families pushing their infants in strollers, retired couples, even a man who brought his donkey along as a companion and pack animal.
Everyone had their own reason for walking the Camino. And for whatever it was, the Camino wasn’t a race. Everyone traveled at their own pace.
Walking alone or with friends?
As a solo traveler, there were unlimited opportunities to meet new friends along the way.
Sitting down for lunch at a cafe, sleeping in an Albergue, or simply asking for directions were just a few examples. We were all walking in the same direction and along the same trail. If I passed someone in the morning, they might overtake me once I stopped in the afternoon for lunch.
Scenery and Landscape
Scenery along the 300km section from Leon to Santiago varied dramatically.
My trip started amongst endless agricultural fields, similarly to California’s Central Valley farming region. There were 5000ft snow covered mountain tops. There were also endless vineyards set upon hillsides before gradually transitioning to Eucalyptus and Oak forests in the rainy region of Galicia.
One of the most striking aspect of the Camino was passing though sleepy Spanish villages, and the plethora of crumbling abandoned buildings surrounding us.
Many had caved in roofs with vegetation which had long overgrown. A little imagination could have pictured families occupying them in former times.
Other villages could have been mistaken for a thriller/horror movie setting. Eerily quiet during the afternoon, there was a complete absence of local activity except for a cafe or restaurant along the Camino.
Second Observation – In general, speaking a bit of Spanish goes a long way. Most locals speak limited English, even along the busy Camino tourist routes.
Average Budget
Historically, the Camino was meant to be an affordable undertaking for anyone who decided to make the journey. My costs were reasonable and could be as low as $30-40/day. Even purchasing souvenirs were avoided due to carrying the extra weight, and transportation by walking was free. My sample daily budget is below.
Breakfast: $5
Lunch: $5-10
Dinner: $13
Albergue (Hostel): $7-12
Foot Care
The typical human body isn’t accustomed to walking 15+ miles everyday for weeks at a time, especially while carrying a 15-20lb pack.
Feet swelled, up to an additional shoe size due to the constant stress. Aching muscles and blisters were common, and the latter was debilitating if not properly treated.
However, no one openly complained about their pain because everyone felt similar pain. Ironically, many travelers saw this discomfort as a rite of passage, which also brought them closer to how the original pilgrims felt while on the Camino.
Accommodations
For the average pilgrim, Albergues offered a convenient and affordable accommodation at night. For between $7-15, travelers could rest in hostel style dormitories in rooms amongst 6-20 other travelers.
Each Albergue was different. Some were located in historical buildings such as a repurposed 17th century monastery, while others were in the host’s personal home. I was often awoken at 7am to a church choir singing next door.
Ear plugs were required due to excessive snoring. And extra vigilance was necessary to check mattresses for occasional bed bugs due to the constant stream of travelers.
Otherwise, it provided the perfect environment to meet other pilgrims and exchange tips for the trail.
Eating and Meals
There was never a shortage of options for local restaurants to eat along the Camino.
Cafes were scattered along the route. For less than 4 euros, you’d receive breakfast including coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, and a croissant or sandwich. Even the smallest “hole in the wall” cafe had a machine in the corner to press fresh juice in the morning.
For dinner, restaurants typically served a pilgrims menu specifically geared for hikers. For 10 euros, you’d receive an appetizer of either salad or soup, followed by a main course of chicken, pork or fish along with potatoes. Dessert was typically ice cream or cake. Altogether, the entire meal would easily fill up an empty stomach after a busy day of walking.
Culture
One of the most memorable parts on the Camino was the people I came in contact with.
Everyone was walking on the same trail to Santiago de Compostela. So if you passed a hiker in the morning, inevitably they’d overtake you while you stopped for lunch.
Also, commercialization on the Camino was avoided. Many locals or former travelers set up “donativos” which offered free food and refreshments along the way. These stations were numerous and pilgrims could relax, socialize, and fill their empty stomachs.
No wonder why there was a common saying that “the Camino provides”.
– Do you need a band aid for your blister? Someone always carried extras in their backpack to share.
– How about calling to make a reservation for the next hostel because your phone died? Another pilgrim was available to assist.
A few final thoughts about the Camino de Santiago
The joy of saying hello to everyone passing by, even though you’ve never met them before. And they always responded back in kind.
I could be sitting in a group of 10 people for a meal with everyone speaking English together. Then I would realize I was the only native English speaker in the group.
The joy of sharing supplies and food to travelers in need, knowing they will pay it forward to the next pilgrims.
The Spanish locals who greet everyone with a smile and offer a home cooked meal, or will chase after lost travelers to point them in the right direction.
Carrying the customary seashell tied to the outside of my backpack. Anyone can identify a pilgrim based upon this symbol, and seemed to give them additional respect based upon the mutual understanding of the hardships endured.
In Conclusion
So after traversing 200 miles over three weeks, making countless new friends including a blister on my right ankle named Fred, I finished my journey on the sandy beaches in the Westernmost Spanish town called Finisterre. There was nowhere further West I could travel.
It was a successful journey which I wish to undertake again in the future. However, next time my goal will be to complete the entire 600 mile/6 week long route.
So until then, safe travels. Buen Camino!
